Tag Archives: hiking

Looking back at Cinque Terre

Despite lots of great potential content, I didn’t write much about our fabulous trip to Europe last spring.*  Over the next couple of weeks, I  will rectify that by sharing snippets from my travel journal in the “Looking back at  . . . ” series.

Cinque Terre, March 30-31, 2011
Wednesday (3/30): On to Cinque Terre.  Due to slow service, we abandoned our plans for delicious looking pizza in La Spezia (at least we hadn’t paid for it yet) in order to catch our train to Cinque Terre.  Given the sub par pizza lunch that we ended up eating in Vernazza, perhaps we should have just waited for the pizza and taken the next train.

After checking into our “hotel” (Albergo Barbara, identical to the B&Bs, but without breakfast), we filled our water bottles and headed out for some hiking.  The high trail from Vernazza to Monterosso was beautiful, and I was glad I pushed through the challenge of the initial climb, which I took at an embarrassingly slow pace (maybe I DID qualify as a person of impaired mobility!).

After a great hike, including some thunder and a bit of rain, we arrived in Monterossa at a proper Italian dinner time, only to find most of the town, including the most interesting looking restaurants, closed.  Turns out many of the restaurants and stores in Cinque Terre were still closed for “low season,” even though all of the lodging establishments were charging “high season” prices.

The day continued to be a food flop, with a dinner that consisted of pasta (the noodles themselves were decent) with the worst pesto we’ve ever had, plus some minestrone that was decent, but was likely a decent variety of canned minestrone.  If the prices reflected the quality of the food, this would have been somewhat less painful, but instead we paid about 20 euros (~$28) for the privilege.

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Thursday: Found a bakery (Il Discovolo) specializing in local products in Manorolo, where we really enjoyed the farinata (chickpea flour savory pastry filled with cheese) and the lightly sweet chesnut bar.  In Riomaggiore, we found a place to buy nice panini ingredients (buffalo mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, eggplant, and olives) by the kilo, so we loaded up on lunch ingredients and set off on the hike between Manarola and Corniglia.

Another great hike, through terraced vineyards, and overgrown terraces that must have once been vineyards or otherwise farmed.  For dinner, we headed back to the bakery and picked up a savory spinach pastry (similar to spanikopita), plus more panini ingredients, since the restaurants in Cinque Terre left us quite nonplussed.

We also found out that the train strike [that we'd heard rumors of all day] was ON, which put Friday’s travel to Siena in jeopardy . . . .

Read the previous post in the “Looking back at  . . . ” series.
Read the next post in the “Looking back at  . . . ” series.

Laurel Springs and Ramsey Cascades

Water over the bridge

The water at Laurel Springs flowed quite enthusiastically after the previous night’s rain.  We crossed safely, but it seemed a little iffy.  It provided good crowd control, as we had the trail to ourselves from that point on for most of the afternoon.  Shortly after crossing the foot bridge, we entered into a “bear activity” warning area.  While stopped to eat lunch, we heard some suspicious grunts.  We never saw anything, but I suspect a bear was near.

Ramsey Cascades topped the next day’s agenda.  Getting to the Ramsey Cascades trail head involved a drive over some narrow gravel roads.  Said roads featured some interesting potholes, but the car came out unscathed, thanks to my stellar 10mph driving.  When it came Matthew’s turn on the way out, he upped our speed to a whopping 12 mph.

The 8-mile RT hike to the Ramsey Cascades was lovely, with many water crossings along the way.  I wore my new Five Fingers for part of the hike — much better than those horrible hiking boots I wore in Glacier (bemoaned here and here).

My birthday present

Darn, I forgot his leash

We found our reward at the end

Tree hugger!

Tree hugger

Why yes, I did mean that literally.  And yes, I am wearing socks with my sandals.  It’s what all the cool kids do, trust me.

I hugged this tree on the Ramsey Cascades trail.  Logging companies stripped most of the original trees from the area that became Smoky Mountains National Park.  This old growth tree, and a few others, stand as a reminder.

Turns out, I was in good company with the tree hugging thing.

Black bears like to hug trees, too!

So do other furry mammals

Misunderstood

While hiking in the Smoky Mountains:

Matthew: I’m glad the birds are still calling.

Me (puzzled): You’re glad your turds are still falling?

Glacier – Part 7 (aka The Final Installment)

Day 11

“The next time you attempt to kill me, please choose something faster and less painful than a four-and-a-half hour hike through the desert at the sunniest and hottest times of the day.”

Someone missed the, "Black is not a good color to wear in the desert," memo

Someone missed the, "Black is not a good color to wear in the desert," memo

We headed to Arches National Park for the day.  Our brilliant plan was to get there early and do the longest hike first (when it was cooler) and then see some of the short distance arches in the heat of the day.  Somehow, early ended up being 9:45am, but it didn’t occur to either of us that we might want to alter our plans.  Nor did it occur to me (despite our hiking experiences from earlier in the trip) that hiking 7.5 miles in Arches National Park might take a little bit longer than walking 7.5 miles down paved city sidewalks.  The latter I could do, at a brisk pace, in about two hours.  The former?

Well, let’s just say that we had succeeded in finding a place that was neither wet, cold, or cloudy.  And a place where that 7.5 miles takes more like 4.5 hours, in the middle of the day, in a place that is hot and sunny, did not make a happy camper out of this one.

I am all ready for a new career as an archaeologist (photo taken at beginninig of death hike)

I am all ready for a new career as an archaeologist (photo taken at beginning of death hike)

Our [very late] lunch after surviving the gauntlet revived me somewhat, but I was still pretty wiped out.  I suspect that I may have been close to heat exhaustion.  Instead of taking the rest of the day off, as I perhaps should have, we successfully located a local [somewhat secret from tourists] swimming hole.  Getting to a place where we could actually swim required more hiking.  While changing into my swimsuit, I discovered a weird rash on my ankles, which did not make me excited.  We did more wading than actual swimming, but the water was refreshing.  Other than looking freakish for the next few days, the rash on my legs never bothered me — no itching or pain.  Despite my initial fear that it was something chemical, like poison ivy, my best guess is that it was heat rash, albeit in an unusual place.
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Day 12

Having learned from the previous day’s mistake, we hit the trail by 8:15am and had a much better time of it.  Still exhausted from yesterday, and not wanting to push too much this time, I voted for turning around before reaching the Morning Glory Bridge at the end of Negro Bill’s Canyon.  Again, I was wondering, how can it possibly be taking us 30 minutes to cover 1 mile?!?

The Double O arch

The Double O arch

We headed back into Moab for a so-so lunch at a local restaurant.  I was washing my hands in the restroom at the same time as another woman, and she was standing there, letting the water run, while she looked in the mirror and fussed with her hair.  Hello, water waster!  In case you haven’t noticed, you are in the DESERT, and while conserving water is always a good thing, it is an especially good thing here.  In the desert.  I just barely restrained myself from reaching in front of her and turning off the tap, and I rather wish that I had exercised less restraint.

After an unsuccessful attempt to find wine we liked on a visit to a local winery, we returned to the campsite for the evening, too tired to drive to Arches and watch the sunset, as originally planned.

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Day 13

Homeward bound, on I-70 headed toward Denver.  Kind of like our experience hiking, we underestimated the time it would take us to drive through the Rockies.  We’re on an interstate, we’ll be going, like, 80mph the whole time — or not.  With only a short stop for lunch, it took us seven hours to drive 350 miles, putting us in Denver just in time for rush hour.  Yay!

We pushed on through into Kansas, where we caught some free wireless internet and found a bed and breakfast for the night in WaKeeney, KS.  We enjoyed real beds and not having to unpack and set up the tent just to take it down the next morning.

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Day 14

Our hosts provided a lovely breakfast the next morning, the highlights of which were their garden grown cantaloupe, tomatoes, basil, and rosemary.

We hit the road, pausing for a short interlude so that we would arrive home after the evening rush hour.  The few hours between arriving at our apartment and delivering the Prius to its rightful owners was very stressful, as our neighbors have recently taken to playing bumper cars with our vehicles.  People, this is not a carnival ride!  (And that “little hit” you delivered to the corner of our front bumper a few weeks ago is going to cost $1000 to repair!)

Anyway, the Prius survived unscathed, and we enjoyed a weekend to unwind before heading back to w-o-r-k.  The end.